When talking about seasonal pool covers and the materials used for making them, there are a few materials a manufacturer will use. Let’s discuss how these different materials are used and which are the right ones for you.
Most pool covers are made of something called Polypropylene Mesh which offers excellent resistance to sun light (UV rays) and is usually weaved together to make sure water can seep through it. It’s by far the most common material for pool covers.
Next is the light weight Scrim Vinyl Coated Mesh which is stronger than Polypropylene covers. It resists scratching and abrasions but doesn’t offer the same UV protection that other covers do. It’s easy to work with and the fabric allows much more sun light to pass through which could aid in algae growth.
The next kind is PVC Coated Polyester Solid which is even higher in resisting abrasions than a vinyl coated mesh above ground swimming pool cover. The fabric doesn’t allow much to enter through it and is ideal for pools located in ‘dirty’ areas with tree leaves and such. It’s mainly used for smaller size pools.
Finally there is a combination of Vinyl-Coated mesh and Vinyl-Coated solid. The mesh area is mainly for water drainage while the solid portion makes up a majority of the cover. It’s more heavy weight than most covers and is excellent for minimizing algae growth.
So those are the main fabrics and materials used for pool covers. Make sure you shop for the best materials for your particular situation.
Please help me find sources for crewel embroidery kits with: 1) complete stitch-by-stitch instructions, including pictures of the stitches. 2) washable fabric, so the tracing lines can be washed out. 3) cotton yarn which can tolerate washing. 4) roughly 8 x 8” 5) less than $25 plus shipping. Thanks. What I found out was – If it’s crewel, you’re going to be using wool yarn. . That’s one of the things that makes crewel distinct from other forms of surface embroidery. Why not only pick up a book like or &referer=brief_results or &referer=brief_results, some fabric (I’d suggest muslin or osnaburg to start with), a pair of hoops (not more than about 6″ for most women’s hands) and some needles and floss and DIY? You can do that (particularly if you go with a library book.) for under $10. And get better quality floss and instruction than most kits.
Katherine Shaughnessy explains crewel at her new crewel workshop at Knot Just Knits in Oak Park.
If you look behind embroidery panels on shop bought clothes you will often see a sort of clear material. I am not sure what its actual purpose is but I do know that it stops the design from shrinking in the tumble drier. The problem is that it always seems to fall off in a couple of washes. Does anyone know how to stop them falling off or another way to stop the designs from shrinking . Any help appreciated. Well, I have your answer right here. You can remove it, it is actually just save the material of the clothes. It is falls off, because it is melting in water, so after a couple of washes it is completely disappears.
Which kind of sewing machine should I buy for sewing bags? I would like to work with fabric, rexene etc. Can you suggest Indian Sewing Machine models. I think I found an answer. You do not need anything special. Just don’t buy one of those little “crafty” machines like Pixie or Rex. And definitely not one of those hand-held stitchers. If you’re not sewing machine savvy, buy from a sewing machine dealer so you will have someone whoever can help when you’ve a question or when the machine needs to be serviced. Unless there’s a definite problem, when to have the machine serviced will depend on how much use it is given. Everyday, 4 -6 hours; the machine should be serviced annually. When not using the machine store it where the humidity is low and temperatures are not extreme. I’ve never heard of an Indian sewing machine. There are brands sold in India that are the same brands sold in the US. I judge any brand by hands-on testing and the integrity of the merchant/sewing machine dealer.
Go to our Natural Building Blog where we answer questions. The galvanized wire we’ve been using to sew the bags closed is abou. . .
I’d like to put together quilts, do any machine applique, maybe even do any quilting on the machine. Some embroidery apps would be nice too. I’ve been out of the loop for so long that I don’t know what is the best anymore. I have an old Bernina that’s great for general sewing but I want something more updated. Do you know what I found? Your Bernie will undoubtedly handle anything you want to throw at it except the computerized embroidery. In addition, most of the folks I know who traded in their sewing machines for sewing/embroidery combos wished they had the sewing machine back. . You can’t sew while you’re waiting for the design to stitch out. So you might want to think about a separate embroidery machine, and hanging on to the Bernina. If you want a dedicated quilting machine, the one I’d probably be most closely looking at is the Juki TL98q or similar. It’s a straight stitch only machine capable of higher than usual sewing speeds, and it takes standard industrial feet. Also has an automatic thread trimmer. Of the current brands of home sewing machines, with your budget, the ones I’d be looking at most closely are Bernina, Elna, Janome, Juki, Pfaff and Viking. Why not just go visit a few dealers and see what’s out there? BTW, I do most of my machine quilting on either my grandmother’s 1948 White Dressmaker cabinet machine, or a 1954 Singer15. Straight stitch is really all you need for quilting.
Laser Applique Machine Embroidery Laser Applique Machine.
I want to sew a stuffed animal with a main body part and small pieces of fabric sewn on top of the body (think spots on a cow). What can I do to finish the raw edges of the small pieces? Hand sewing techniques would be preferred, but machine techniques are welcome, as well. I was happy to learn… Blanket stitch around the edge– attach and fray proof at the same time. Or use fusible interfacing on the back, then cut out the spots and attach by whatever method– the fusible will help prevent fraying. Or do turned edge or raw edge applique techniques:
I am starting a little boutique store, and coming more from the angle of furniture repair. I have little sewing experience, and now I really want to learn the basics. I want a decent machine that will let me get creative. Maybe with various materials. . What are the various options on a sewing machine, and what makes them valuable? I have seen $5 thrift store versions up to $400 models with digital readouts. Any buying tips. After looking around, I learned — Depends on what you want to use it for. For routine hemming, taking in a skirt with a straight stitch, making simple garments, a flat bed that can be converted into a free arm is good. With a free arm you can fit the sleeve or pants leg over it. You can get a Singer with 25 to 35 fancy stitches. If you want to learn to embroider you want a computerized machine that stores stitches. They all can use a double or triple needle that makes a pretty stitch. TV’s Nancy Zieberman has useful DVD’s on sewing basics, embroidery and quilting. Nancy comes on public TV or look up Nancy’s Notions on the Internet. Nowadays, everyone is using sergers to finish raw seams on garments. It gives the garment that professional look inside that factory garments have. They run from around $200 and up. I wouldn’t sew without one if the garment doesn’t have a lining. Other features in a sewing machine is how the bobbin fits in–does it drop in or go in in the front, does it have a self threader (good for someone with poor eye sight). You may want to check to see if it’s quiet enough. High price models such as Bernina and Pfaff can run into a $1000 or more while Singer runs about $100 to $300 or more. As for fabrics that depends on the needle and presser foot sometimes. The thinner the fabric the smaller the needle–a size 8 needle for very thin fabric and about an 11 or 14 for medium and 16 for denim.
I want to learn how to sew so I can start buying thrifty clothes and making them into my own and whatnot. I really don’t know a thing about sewing. I think it’s a good thing to know and I want to learn. I’m 14 years old and yeah I’m a beginner. So what are some good online sewing classes that will thoroughly teach me at least the basics. What I found out was – www. Craftsy. Com offers a number of sewing classes at reasonable prices. On various topics including refashioning and resizing.
I have a very very basic knowledge of sewing on a sewing machine. I really love embroidery and would love to get an embroidery machine and learn how to do it at home. The thing is that I don’t want to gte an expensive one and realize that I don’t enjoy it at all. Which model would you suggest. After speaking to others on the web, I found the answer. If you can follow a sewing machine manuals instructions, then the Brother SE 400 sold at Walmart would be an inexpensive starter. It is a combo (sewing machine and embroidery machine). I bought my first ever embroidery machine (Brother PE 150) at Walmart several years ago and when I upgraded to a bigger machine (Babylock, which is the same family) I was able to sell the 150 on Ebay. Before making any purchase, visit a Brother or Babylock sewing machine dealer to see what they have new and used. Ask for demos and if they have lessons – a few basic lessons wouldn’t hurt. In addition to the machine, you will need to purchase tear-away and cut-away stabilizer. To embroidery napped fabrics, such as towels you will also need a topper to hold down the nap. Wash-away stabilizer is used for this. Now all this will run around $30 – $35. You will also need machine embroidery bobbin thread and machine embroidery top thread – the bobbin thread is a lighter weight (usually 60 or 70 wt) than the top thread. These threads are around $2 per spool. What type of stabilizer to use with which type of fabric? Were to place the design? How to properly hoop? All this and many more tips and techniques can be found at Embroidery Library. See the link at the bottom of this post.
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I just bought a PED Basic and I can not figure out how to put any designs on it. I would also often know where I can get free embroidery designs online. Thanks. Well, I have your answer. Don’t know what sewing machine this goes with-but with mine you load the software program that comes with it, hook the box up to your computer, either scan clip art into the program or import it. Clip art should come on your screen. Keep reading your instructions. Type embroidery designs into a search, there are lots. Can try to help more, if needed.